Camogli: A hidden Italian treasure

  • Published
  • By Capt. Jose Garcia
  • 31st Security Forces Squadron
AVIANO AIR BASE, Italy --  Nestled between Genoa and Cinque Terre, and a pleasant blend of both, lies a vibrant, but little known fishing village turned resort town named Camogli. Camogli's name is derived from a contraction of Casa Dei Moglie (or House of the Wives), which is a testament to its long and distinguished maritime tradition that watched its men take to the seas while the women remained in the village. This seaside escape is located on the coast of the Liguria Region, and is a 20-minute train ride south of Genoa on the Golfo Paradiso.

Walking down the main seafront promenade, one is instantly struck by the multi-story houses in bright shades of orange, pink, yellow and green, typical of Liguria. Looking at the endless rows of windows sporting wooden shutters facing the smooth stone beach; one can't help but think they're looking at a Hollywood movie set. Savvy travelers, upon closer inspection, may even realize some of the windows are not actual windows at all, but simply facsimiles painted on the building's façade to give the appearance of additional windows. This is the unintended consequence of a long repealed Genovese tax on windows that influences the local architecture to this day - adding an extra aura of "this place is too pretty to be real."

Sipping some of the local Vermentino, a white aromatic wine, while enjoying the ocean breeze and watching the world go by at a leisurely pace; it's hard to believe you're so close to the bustling metropolis of Genoa. The beachfront is crowded enough to be fun and lively but not so crowded you feel claustrophobic. As the people go by, decidedly absent are the throngs of eager tourists often associated with Camogli's more isolated, yet infinitely more popular, quasi-neighbors in Cinque Terre.

On a rocky outcropping jutting out into the sea sits Camogli's nearly 800-year-old Castel Dragone, the key to the city's ancient defenses against pirates and the rivals of the Genovese Republic. Next to the fortress, and flanked on one side by sheer rock cliffs dropping precipitously into the sea, sits Camogli's singularly impressive Church, the Basilica di Santa Maria Assunta. This 12th century church's humble exterior belies its opulently decorated baroque interior replete with pink and green marble, impressive paintings by masters of the Genovese School, and a remarkable amount of gold gilding.

Arguably its most notable event, and the one that puts Camogli on the map for most Italians, is its annual Sagrada dei Pesce festival held in May. The festival, which has been going on for more than 60 years, celebrates the patron saint of fishermen San Fortunato and is characterized by a fish fry. What makes this fish fry so unique is that it is conducted on what local residents claim is the largest skillet in the world. At more than 13 feet in diameter and weighing over 6,000 pounds, the skillet is a local landmark that is hauled to the marina on specially built scaffolding each year. Once in place, the skillet is filled with oil and dozens of specially designed baskets are lowered into it filled with fish donated by the local fishing cooperative, which is then handed out to the festival goers for free.

For those who find calm respites on the beach sipping wine and eating Foccacia a bit boring, Camogli offers the opportunity for sea kayaking, self-contained underwater breathing apparatus diving, and hiking along some of the most picturesque ocean views on the Italian Riviera. Those who are up for it can even make the two-hour hike to San Fruttuoso, a "village" in a hidden cove accessible only by boat or on foot. This secluded locale counts among its minimal assets: an abbey converted into a museum, a pair of restaurants, and a smooth pebble beach ideal for soaking in the serenity as you wait for the next boat back to reality.

In sum, Camogli is a perfect spot for those looking to experience the inherent beauty of the Ligurian coast, enjoy the outdoors in an unbelievably scenic place, or for those who fancy themselves a modern day Hemingway looking to find peaceful solitude along the waterfront cafes.